Aguardiente, a traditional sugarcane liquor also known as guaro in Colombia, is experiencing a renaissance as it transitions from humble beginnings—typically enjoyed from plastic cups—to a more refined presence in upscale bars. This cultural staple of Colombian nightlife is joining the ranks of premium Latin American spirits, alongside tequila, mezcal, cachaça, and pisco.
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ToggleThe Rise of Aguardiente
In Colombia, aguardiente is more than just a drink; it is often the first alcoholic experience for many. The conversation around this liquor rarely centers on whether to drink it but rather on which regional variety to choose. Each of the country's 32 departments boasts its own specific aguardiente, such as Antioqueño, Néctar, and Llanero.
Historically, aguardiente was produced in a way that emphasized quantity over quality, resulting in products that lacked distinctive flavors. Natalia Carreño, founder of Aguardentería Demente in Bogotá, notes that industrial aguardientes share common tasting notes, offering little variety.
Legislation and Innovation
The approval of new regulations in 2016 and again in 2020 has opened the market to private producers, fostering a wave of innovation. As a result, many brands are beginning to experiment with unique botanicals and production methods. Carreño explains that aguardiente is now diversifying, with recent legislation defining the spirit as a sugarcane distillate containing between 16% and 36% alcohol and infused with anise or fennel.
Craftsmanship Meets Tradition
Mauricio Gutiérrez, the founder of Mil Demonios, Colombia's first premium aguardiente brand, aims to elevate aguardiente to international recognition. “We want aguardiente to enjoy the same prestige as tequila in Mexico or pisco in Peru,” he states. His brand features innovative ingredients like fennel, ginger, lemon, and coriander, combined with extra-neutral alcohol for a smoother drinking experience.
Nicolás Ríos, a chemical engineering professor at the University of Los Andes, clarifies that each distillation increases alcohol purity, reducing unpleasant flavors and odors, thus enhancing the overall quality.
Julio Molano, another aguardiente producer from San Francisco, focuses on high-quality sugarcane and an intricate distillation process using copper stills. His brand, Desquite, stands out by using virgin sugarcane syrup, combining tradition with a modern twist. Packaging also plays a key role, adding to the brand's narrative and uniqueness.
New Cocktail Culture
As newer brands emerge, the consumption of aguardiente is evolving. Johan Yepes, head bartender at Aguardientería Demente, highlights the growing trend of enjoying aguardiente in cocktails rather than simply as a shot. Innovative preparations include combinations with hibiscus, pineapple extracts, and even specialized marinades, changing how people perceive and enjoy this traditional liquor.
“People are starting to appreciate guaro slowly— savoring it without the need to get drunk,” Yepes notes. His inventive cocktails demonstrate the versatility of aguardiente, encouraging drinkers to explore diverse flavor profiles.
Cultural Significance
Despite its modernization, aguardiente remains a key aspect of Colombian identity. Natalia Carreño affirms, “It may evolve, but guaro will always be our drink.” The beverage continues to hold a special place in the hearts of Colombians, with many seeking out their regional versions for a taste of home.
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