In March 2023, two significant events occurred that transformed fashion trends: the premiere of the fourth season of Succession and Gwyneth Paltrow's highly publicized trial over a skiing incident. Both the HBO show's characters and the actress sparked discussions around a style referred to as “silent luxury.” Initially exclusive to the wealthy elite, this trend has made its way to mainstream fashion through fast fashion outlets. Silent luxury is characterized by neutral colors such as white, black, beige, gray, and navy, along with minimalistic lines and a deliberate absence of logos or flashy prints. The style emphasizes high-quality materials like cashmere and merino wool from notable brands such as The Row, Celine, and Loro Piana.
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ToggleOrigins and Societal Influence
The concept of silent luxury is not entirely new; tech leaders like Steve Jobs popularized simplistic uniforms — outfits that may appear straightforward yet come with a hefty price tag. This approach signals wealth without overt boasting. As economic inequality rises, many aspire to emulate the wealthiest 1% of the population, who control over half of global wealth, according to Oxfam's report, The Law of the Richest. Observations in workplaces and across social media illustrate this trend, with numerous online resources detailing how to create an expensive-looking wardrobe on a budget.
Coro Saldaña, a fashion and retail expert, believes this understated aesthetic reflects a broader consumer attitude rather than a fleeting trend. She attributes its rising popularity to cultural phenomena such as Succession and other shows like The White Lotus and Big Little Lies. The post-pandemic mood, coupled with the ongoing social and political landscape, has prompted those with the means to prefer a more discreet spending approach. Following the onset of the war in Ukraine, recent fashion presentations have taken on a somber tone, resonating with a desire for respect and awareness of current events.
Aesthetic and Personal Branding
More than mere clothing choices, this intentionally minimalistic aesthetic aims to foster a polished personal brand, particularly amongst women in professional environments. The goal is to avoid distractions during virtual meetings and presentations, where busy clothing can detract from one's professional image. The rise of social media has amplified the pressure to conform to a sterile, minimalist style. Saldaña notes that such aesthetics gain favor in algorithms, enhancing user engagement while making content visually appealing for social media feeds.
The Performance of Wealth
Social media serves as a platform for presenting an illusion of wealth, making luxury experiences seem commonplace. Notably, 33.4% of Spaniards reported being unable to afford vacations, accentuating the stark reality of economic disparity. Viral content, like actor Brays Efe's iconic 2018 video questioning, “Why does everyone have a boat?” highlights this social divide. Additionally, it's been revealed that some influencers create a façade of extravagance, renting private jets for photo opportunities rather than genuine travel experiences.
This phenomenon can be examined through Pierre Bourdieu's theory of habitus, which discusses symbolic capital — the value attributed to someone not based on material wealth but on social perception. Lu Beccassino, a Colombian psychologist specializing in sociology, explains that while symbolic capital may attract online attention, its fragility lies in its failure to convert into economic or cultural capital.
Nouveau Riche and Social Stratification
The term ‘nouveau riche' refers to newly wealthy individuals who often face disdain from established elites, a sentiment that echoes F. Scott Fitzgerald's character Jay Gatsby from The Great Gatsby. Gatsby's extravagant lifestyle failed to secure him recognition from the social elite, demonstrating the complex interplay of wealth and acceptance. Bourdieu asserts that habitus develops through socialization within various institutions, which creates distinctions between those with inherited wealth and newer wealth holders, leading to exclusion based on cultural capital.
As a result, those labeled nouveau riche often lack the “cultural capital” necessary to blend into the elite social landscape, facing ridicule and discrimination. This perpetuates a cycle where traditional elites differentiate themselves from newcomers, reinforcing their social positions.
The Allure of Old Money
Among the affluent, social hierarchies exist. Tech entrepreneurs may adopt silent luxury trends, yet ‘old money' aesthetics remain distinctive. Social media has seen the rise of trends mimicking the style associated with established wealth. TikTok users humorously reference how their “old money look” sometimes translates into an “I need money” look, reflecting a struggle to attain that implicit social status.
While old money represents inherited wealth with exclusive coding, merely emulating such styles doesn't grant genuine access to the elite class. The elite continually shift legitimate status signs to forms less easily imitated, encompassing education backgrounds, recognized surnames, and exclusive social circles. Although the old money aesthetic might be desirable, it is not easily attainable.
Past cultural movements, such as the 1960s depiction of Ivy League style in the iconic photo book Take Ivy and Lisa Birnbach's The Official Preppy Handbook in 1980, highlight society's fascination with elite fashion. Both publications went on to achieve cult status, emphasizing the blend of aspiration and privilege within the realm of fashion.
In a contemporary context, these narratives are often tied to feelings of inadequacy. Beccassino highlights that the endeavor to exude wealth can stem from a desire to escape not just economic struggles but social stigma as well. The notion of social media exacerbating these dynamics showcases how presenting a façade of affluence may be an attempt to gain social recognition and respect in an increasingly judgmental environment. The complexities of social media and its impact on perceptions of wealth reflect deeper societal structures and inequalities.