Vegans Face Backlash: Can the Movement Overcome Its Crisis?

Is Veganism Declining? Inside the Changing Landscape of Plant-Based Diets

The trend of veganism is showing signs of diminishing interest recently. While it remains difficult to gauge the overall decline of those rejecting animal products, studies yield conflicting results depending on the source. Any decrease in the “veggie” population—comprising vegans, vegetarians, and flexitarians—appears to be more qualitative than quantitative.

Examples from High-Profile Restaurants

In August, the Financial Times addressed the topic with an article titled “Why the Vegans Lost.” A notable case discussed was Eleven Madison Park, a New York City restaurant that, after the Covid-19 pandemic, had embraced a fully plant-based menu but has since reintroduced meat. Additionally, The Guardian highlighted various establishments, such as London‘s Unity Diner, known for its innovative 3D-printed vegan steak, that have closed down across the UK and beyond.

Sales Figures and Industry Challenges

Sales declines at vegan product companies, such as Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods, have also raised concerns. In the UK, vegan food sales reportedly dropped by 13.6% year-over-year, as stated by The Guardian. Meatless Farm encountered financial difficulties that led to a management buyout by VFC, its rival, while notable vegan brand Oatly has scaled back certain product lines.

Celebrity Stories Reflecting Dietary Changes

The shift in veganism is further highlighted by high-profile figures such as crypto entrepreneur Sam Bankman-Fried and former New York City Mayor Eric Adams, who was seen enjoying fish recently. Furthermore, singer Miley Cyrus, who followed a vegan diet for nearly seven years, reverted to including fish in her meals for better health, citing concerns about nutrient intake.

Current Trends and Observations

The Madrid Vegan Association notes a slight decline in the number of strict vegans, correlating with a rise in the closure of 100% plant-based restaurants. From 2021 to 2023, strict vegans in Spain reportedly decreased from 0.8% to 0.7%, while the broader “veggie” population fell from 13% to 11%, according to the Spanish Vegetarian Union. However, availability of plant-based options in grocery stores and non-vegan restaurants has increased, although often marketed as “healthy alternatives.”

Shift in Focus: Health Over Strict Veganism

This paradox of declining veganism juxtaposed with increasing plant-based options can be attributed to a growing emphasis on general well-being. Many now prioritize reducing the consumption of ultra-processed foods rather than strictly eliminating meat. The narrative has shifted from “less meat” to “fewer additives,” compounded by discussions about the nutritional effects of plant-based diets, particularly on children and muscle development.

Challenges Faced by Transitioning Vegans

One example is Mario Oliveros, who after four years as a vegan chose to abandon the diet. He mentions that social media greatly popularized veganism, yet the sacrifices required—like the need for B12 supplements—proved too challenging. “Following a 100% vegan diet isn't optimal,” he states. Enric Urrutia, founder of the magazine Bueno y Vegano, also remarks on the slowdown in the movement, attributing part of the decline to a lack of nutritional education among younger generations.

Need for Increased Awareness and Education

Both the Madrid Vegan Association and Urrutia emphasize the necessity for clearer communication regarding veganism, including addressing misconceptions about protein and vitamin B12 intake. This lack of understanding is evident even in restaurants, where plant-based dishes may sometimes still contain non-vegan ingredients.

Social Dynamics of Veganism

Transitioning to a vegan or vegetarian diet may vary greatly based on individual circumstances. Eduardo Bordón, who stopped eating meat seven years ago, cites that support from fellow vegetarians helped ease his transition. Although society is gradually adapting to these diets, he notes that the movement may not be declining but rather evolving, with fewer people adhering strictly to veganism. Others, like Jaime Lorite, continue to advocate for veganism as more than just a trend, highlighting the social challenges faced by those committed to the lifestyle.